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The hills of Kumaon are an integral part of the
Himalayan panorama. Since ages they have attracted philosophers, mystics,
sages, painters, poets, and now trekkers.
These
enchanting hills provide several vistas for mountaineers and trekkers. Kumaon
is imbued with glaciers, important being Pindhari, Kafni, Sunderdhanga in
Almora district, and Milam and Ralam in Pithoragarh district.
Our
trip to Pindhari was accomplished in 9 days and our efforts were amply rewarded
by the magnificence of the trek. This was the best time to be there (early May)
when the snow remains and yet the flowers are in bloom. The main peaks near the
glacier are Nandakhat (6611mt), Nandakot (6860 mt), Pawali Dwar (6663 mt),
Baljuri (5922 mt) and Changuch (6322 mt).
The
path to Pindhari Glacier ends at a spot called “Zero-Point” (3820 mt),
at which one is face-to-face with the Glacier across a ravine. The 3-km Glacier
can be seen descending from a height of 6000 mt to the bottom of the ravine
where the river emerges as a trickle.
We
left Mumbai by the Punjab Mail and alighted the next day at Agra. We changed to
the Kumaon Express but not before a visit to the Taj Mahal. At Haldwani we
changed to a bus to take us into the Kumaon hills. After a tiring 8-hour
bus-journey through the foothills of the Himalayas, we arrived at Bageshwar,
nestled cosily in a valley at an altitude of 900 mt.
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Hills around Bageshwar; the snow-covered
mountains in the horizon is our destination
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Day
-1: We had to walk only 3 km but climb steeply to reach Loharkhet (1750
mt). We camped at the Nigam Dak Bungalow. For the next few days, we would be away
from the trappings of urban civilisation and touristy places – no electricity,
telephones, hotels, cabbies, shopping, commerce.
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Day
-2: The journey was very tough. We climbed 1000 m (i.e. 1 km) over a distance
of 10 km. he climb seemed never-ending. But sweet are the fruits of labour:
when we reached the top of the pass (altitude 2990 mt), we were enraptured by the
green meadow where sheep grazed, and there was a very welcome teashop. Our camp
for the night – Dhakuri – was still 2 km away and 300 m below. Suddenly
it started drizzling and became cold. As we started to move on our way, we were
stopped in our tracks by the gorgeous view of Dhakuri below, with a vista of
snow-covered mountains right in front of us.
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Resting at a beautiful grassland after an arduous climb |
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At the Dhakuri PWD dak bungalow: most beautiful place on the
route:
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–3: This day’s work was easy. Only 8 km, of which 4 km down and 4 on the level,
through an enchanting forest, then rolling meadows and then barley fields till
we reached village Khati, the last inhabited place on this route. We
bought provisions for our meal and had a sort of feast, we wrote letters and
posted them at the village post office. The Dak Bungalow here is situated
amidst tall trees, with unseen birds constantly chirping and calling. This was
the only place on the trek where it was sunny and warm, so we could have a bath
and do our laundry. |
Enchanting forest and rapids |
Resting among barley fields at Khati, the last village on
the route |
Day
– 4: The path from Khati goes first goes through thick forests for 5 km. All
along this route, we could hear the gentle babble of the Pindhari river and the
continuous bird-calls. From here on, the vegetation gets sparser. Another 5 km
along this route and we came to Dwali (altitude 2750 mt), situated on
the fork of the Pindari and Kafni rivers which emerge from glaciers of the same
names.
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The PWD dak bungalow at Dwali, at the
junction of the routes to Pindari Glacier (left) and Miram Glacier (right);
in the forefront is the glacier-bed (as in river-bed) |
Day
–5: We take the Pindhari path. The path gently climbs up and river gorge
narrows. Vegetation gets sparser and stunted. There were wild flowers
everywhere – large, small, tiny, pink, red, yellow, and purple. We were now at
what is called the Alpine limit (3000 mt), which is a term which defines this
characteristic landscape seen at this altitude.
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At Alpine height, a flower path of rhododendron and other
wild flowers (and wild strawberries too)
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path was interrupted by thick ice-sheets coming down from the heights, and
we crossed them using the grooves made by the Public Works Dept (PWD) personnel. Some of
these ice-sheets were steeply inclined to our path, so we had to be careful not
to slip and slide. Our journey on this day was only 5 km, but the crossing the ice
sheets consumed time. Phurkia (altitude 3200 m) is situated among wildly
flowering plants, high atop a river gorge, ensconced amidst awesome Himalayan
walls. Phurkia, we discovered, is a very cold and windy place indeed, and there
was a brief crisis of confidence the next morning, with some of us wondering
whether we should proceed further, even though the destination was just
around the corner, literally. |
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Above and below: traversing several mini glaciers |
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Can't help that exhilaration feeling:
the place does it to you. See the trail in the background |
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Day – 6: There was a lot of excitement and anxiety as we
left Phurkia for the Pindhari Glacier. We crossed no less than 28 ice-sheets,
some more than 100 mt wide, and some were very steep indeed. The “V” shaped
valley gradually opened up into a wide “U” shaped valley, obvious signs of a
Glacier valley.
We were now tiny specks in the wide “U” of the valley: on
both sides were barren rock walls covered with patches of snow. We were now in
the midst of the giant peaks – Magtoli, Nanda Khat, Pawali Dwar and Chinguch –
at close range. We were in elated spirits now, romping as if we were in the
laps of the Himalayas – literally as well as figuratively. The mountains
indulgently and benevolently watched us as we made our way cheerfully through
this U-shaped valley. |
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U-shaped valley is formed by glaciers. See the trail through
the centre of the pic. Gives an idea of how tiny we were and how wide the valley
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Finally we arrived at the dead-end, the ”Zero Point”.
Standing at the edge of the ravine, there was the Pindhari glacier across the
ravine. Its body was a mass of snow, which was white at the upper heights and
turned muddy brown in the lower heights as it carried the debris of mountains
and rocks. We all experienced an exalted feeling – of having reached our goal,
and of being in this heavenly place. |
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The magnificent Pindari
Glacier, flowing down from the peaks |
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Right at the edge of a ravine,
gouged out by the glacier. A close-up of the Pindari glacier |
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Frolicking at the Glacier
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Pravin Gandhi, the Captain Intrepid, leader of
the troop and whose brainchild this trek was, 3rd from right.
The entire troop posing for the camera with the
Pindari Glacier in the backdrop, after successfully completing the
troop's mission and reaching the destination
left to right: a local, Sharad, Raju guide, a
local, little Janak, KJ, little Siddharth, Yashwant, Nilesh, Pravin,
Uncle Nagindas, sis Hansa
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A memento made by little Janak
and little Siddharth at Zero Point, with words from the
insporational song "Hongey Kaamyaab" (we shall be successful); and
an inscription on Bhojpatra certifying the Pravin Gandhi of Bombay
has made it to Zero Point as "Photographer Trekker".
Left at Zero Point, till the
Himalayan winds blow it away, the Bhojpatra withers away, and the
future visitors thereof shall know no more, but the mighty Glacier
and the might Himalayas are my mute witnesses |
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